Pattern - Civil War Winter 
                 Jacket (1862)

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This is a fairly simple pattern to make.  The pattern is set up so when all the papers are together you can just lay it on some doubled-over fabric and cut away.  Using 60" fabric you will need 5 yards.  Before you cut out the sleeves, follow the pattern for the lining and batting or felt but when you cut the outside fabric do a 2" seam allowance.  You will have to adjust the shoulder when it comes time.

To keep myself warm in those cold nights I cut out all the lining pcs and then cut the same size pcs from batting, I ended up using a medium polyfil loft of a king size comforter, but I think that a queen would be enough.  I then marked out the entire quilting on each pc.  I made a line of pins to follow and then used the end of the arm on my machine to quilt the entire lining.

Bonnet Tutorial Coming Soon!

Sew the dart of the Front Pcs and then sew the front to the side back.  Then sew the side back to the Back pc.  Don't forget to sew the top of the shoulder closed.

Sew the long ways of the sleeve and then MAKE SURE IT FITS YOUR ARM.  If it doesn't then you will have to recut.  Sew the top of the sleeve to the main part of the coat.  Follow the same with the outside fabric. 

Line up the neck of the completed lining with the neck of the completed outside fabric. Sew closed.  Then using pins, pin the outside edges together.  Leave about a 9" to 12" opening at the bottom of the center back to flip it right side out.  Sew.  Flip right side out.

Put your arms through the lining to match up with the outside.  Have someone pin the sleeves, don't fret if they are 4" or so too short because you can always add fur.  Hand stitch them closed.

Close the center back hole with small hand stitches.

Add some closures to the jacket that you perfer.

To make the Collar take the fur and a quilted lining and sew them together, right sides together.  Leaving one side of the front of the collar open, you can sew it together by hand stitches.  Flip right side out and close up.  I pinned my collar to the jacket and then just whipped stitched it on.

For all the front detail I just whipped it on in the lining.  If I take the coat off you can see where the stitches are.